Monday 18 January 2010

bolivia part one

only a few kilometers across the border and we settle in the very relaxed town of copacabana on lago titicaca (3800m).

we sit back, eat some trout and enjoy the sunset...

...followed by a spectacular electrical storm.

a short boat ride 12 kilometers northwest of copacabana and we find ourselves on isla del sol (island of the sun). our intent was to have a day trip, but we liked the village of challapampa and its white sandy beach so much we stayed the whole afternoon and night.

looks a bit mediterranean doesn't it?

the following day we walk the length of the island (its not that big).


the busy port near the village of yumani for both locals and tourists going to and coming from copacabana.

just barely in view...the mountains of the cordillera apolobamba.


ready mixed cuba libre (rum and coke) with super trekking/travel mates molly and ryan.

copacabana cathedral.

cloud covered huayna potosi (6088m)

happy to have some snow in december.

just outside la paz is chacaltaya, bolivia's only developed ski slope and also the highest in the world at over 5000m. no skiing anymore though, due to global warming the glacier now looks like a little patch of snow.

after returning to la paz and getting organized we set off on the takesi trail.

crossing the cordillera real, we walk on 20km of some of the best remaining pre-columbian paved roads in south america.


another trek, another pass. from here its all downhill.

we managed to set up camp and have dinner just before the rain started...which turned into sleet...then snow and strong cold winds. all night.

waking up to frosty temperatures and snowy mountains not seen the day before due to clouds.

to the left is where we will descend...into the lush and warm yungas.


a bit of llama.

more perfectly laid stones with fully operational water canals.

now much more greener and colourful at lower altitudes.


back in busy la paz.


the massive illimani (6439m) stands over la paz.

after 20 hours by bus from la paz...up and over the mountains via some less than ideal roads, we arrive at rurrenabaque in the amazon basin.

the rio beni.

off we go on our jungle trip, up the rio beni by boat for 4 hours into madidi national park.

the cheerful boat drivers daughter.

parakeet.

jungle abode.


in we go...trekking into the lush and hot jungle for 6 days.

fresh jaguar tracks.

mucky business...


jenny successfully catches a little catfish...which we cut up and use for bait, hoping for something bigger.

our great and knowledgeable guide eric. he ate termites.

our sleeping arrangement (with sleeping mats and under mosquito nets). we pass the rainy time by making jewelery from wild mango coconuts and other nuts/seeds.

our soaking wet camp.

migel the super cook with our fish cooked inside bamboo shoots.

very very tasty.

migel and a 3kg catfish.

here is a parasite vine that slowly over time takes over every tree within reach.

best shot i could take of a tarantula...it was big.

fungi.


a 'walking' palm tree...

...and its self defence spikes.

dinner. salmon, piranha and plantains.

our jungle crew. we made it back...at times we thought we weren't going to make it. because of the large amounts of rainfall...rivers swelled. one stream we crossed on day one which was about 20cm deep raised roughly 2m...now a powerful river. unbelievable. we had to swim and use trees for bridges...very dramatic stuff. no photo evidence...there was just too much rain.

apparently i look like chuck norris...its my new bolivian nickname.

back down the rio beni (also at a much higher level) to rurrenabaque.

on the bus back to la paz and as we go higher we see the flat expanse of the amazon basin.

merry christmas eve lebanese dinner. would have tasted much better without strep throat.